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THESSALONIKI

Travel article

amy tzi
1

story Even directions born burnt flakiest cultural napkin goaty pride aching mercy drawn garlicky dreamy

Travel
Greece

Give Greece a chance

The Observer , Sunday 29 May 2011

Thessaloniki , Greece's second city , has spent centuries being , bombed and built again . Our writer brings the colourful and metropolis up to date

I want to tell you a . You don't have to believe it . I didn't at first , and it happened to me . It was years ago in Istanbul , at the end of a long evening down by the water at Besiktas , when we had all become as as the waters of the Bosphorus at that hour . I was for my bed , but the tide of the night was running towards an iskembe joint , and I could already taste the vinegar of the tripe soup on the air . I pleaded ? a godawful early start for Salonica ? when a young guy at the edge of the group touched my arm . " If you are going to Salonica , you must eat the borek , " he said , and began to write down to the best bougatsatsidiko in the city .

He had never been to Thessaloniki himself , but his grandfather had been there . his grandmother , who came from Hania , with all the Cretan that entails , had to admit that Salonicans made the best borek / bougatsa on the planet ? the lightest , filo , just greasy enough to cut the kick of the young mizithra cheese flecked with oregano and mint .

He handed me a with a line across it to show the sea , a fortress on a hill , a hamam with three domes , and between them the Turkish names of some streets .

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